Monday, March 30, 2009

Wal-Mart – In China

I am told that there are four Wal-Mart Supercenters in Beijing and its suburbs. I can only speak to seeing two and being inside of one of the supercenters. To be completely blunt about the experience is simply the easiest way to proceed. The store looks and feels nothing like that of any American Wal-Mart I’ve seen or visited. The Wal-Mart south of Wudaokou is three stories with no distinct or understandable layout of the floor plan. Now that’s not to say that Wal-Mart doesn’t have a real floor plan its just that this westerner doesn’t understand or know the Wal-Mart plan. I am sure with all of their capital and human resources they must have a winning formula, I just don’t happen to understand it.

So you start on the top floor (entrance is on the third floor only) and get to see the personal hygiene, clothing, shoes, and household products. On the second/ middle/ ground floor you have consumer electronics, books, furniture and other large household items. It is also of note that the second floor/ground floor is also the floor with the cash registers and checkout process. As a point of interest in china each cashier line has two cashiers and plastic bags cost extra (10 mao (our cents) per bag). The common opinion among us expats (expatriated students) is that this is done to prevent waste and lower the demand for plastics in the country.

Now back to the store:
The first and basement floor is the food section of the supercenter with all sorts of meats, vegetables, and dried goods. So now you the reader are wondering what did he mean no layout or floor plan. You just spent two paragraphs describing it. Yes I did and no there is no great floor plan than that. As to the arrangement and distribution of items on the floor is what my original point was about. There is no (seemingly) order to why the shoes go next to baby goods and cosmetics next to clothing. It just seems like that is the accepted way.

For those of you who own Wal-Mart stock let me put your minds to rest. I have visited this store multiple times and at all hours of the day always to find it packed with paying customers. To those of you who think a line on black Friday is bad I would ask you to come to a Chinese Wal-Mart on Thursday or Friday nights in China. Now I am sure the casual reader has determined a flaw in the Wal-Mart scheme in China.

Perhaps that is how do people move their carts through all the floors? Elevators, Stairs, Teleportation, their backs all seem like plausible answers to this question. The true answer is even simpler and more elegant. They have escalators that take the customer from floor to floor and don’t worry about the cart sliding down without you. The engineer who came up with this solution gave that issue an even more elegant solution, magnets. Four high strength magnets lock your cart into the escalator.

I am sure that this little post might raise some questions so feel free to email me and I’ll try to post some pictures from my next visit to help explain this. As to my next post its going to cover this past weekend (Tianjin and the Great Wall).

Sunday, March 29, 2009

Dancing Noodleier

Don’t let this title lead you anywhere because my guess is that the your guess would be completely off as to what your about to read. The 27th of March brought with it besides a week of exams a desire to get off of campus and out into the real world for dinner. So out the door and onto the street my merry treo went at 7:00pm hoping to beat the rush (by going late and yes 7 is late in China). A quick taxi ride downtown to follow a recommendation given by speaking professor delivered us to Hai Di Lao restaurant.

The front was intimidating, blazon in fiery red and shimmer gold paint and neon signs. The building dominated its surroundings even though it stood only a few stories high. Its glowing signs and the commotion of guest lead to the conclusion that it must be worth the drive down. This conclusion came about because it was now 7:45 a time when most Chinese seem to be long done with dinner. A jot up the small flight of stairs delivered us to the dinner and fun.

Once inside we were greeted by an attendant that offered us a grey liquid that I would most likely classify as soybean tea. Then even before sitting down in the packed waiting room we were whisked away. Yes! We thought, westerners get special priority or seating whatever it was we were going to eat soon. Our collective hopes were dashed and as we were deposited deep within the belly of the restaurant to sit at small plastic chairs. A quick glance around the room revealed that some fortunate souls were sitting at tables and enjoying real food but scattered within the alleys between tables were those of us condemned to the purgatory of only seeing and smelling of good food. A row of us forsaken souls huddled together drink our grey liquid and glancing towards the doorway leading into the room, hoping, hoping for our moment of liberation.

Then it came! They pointed at me! I was sure of it. A quick finger gesture at myself and a nod confirmed it. Yes! Dinner! We walked back out of the maze that took us deep inside the restaurant towards the front and a table being cleaned by the fastest bus service I’ve ever witnessed. As for dinner it was the traditional Chinese Hot Pot with Beef, Spinach, Lamb, Lotus, and Cabbage boiled on the table in either spicy or bland water. We finished dinner with the local brew (Yangjing and Qingdao) and then waited for the magic to begin.

See the true reason for coming to this restaurant was to see the dancing noodle man as my teacher called them. When your done with the main course a bus boy/noodleier (I made it up) comes out and twirls a 12 inch piece of dough. Taking that 12 inches he turns into a about a four foot circle that he proceeds to dance and twirl with. To say the least the event is quite enjoyable and the noodleier takes great fun at trying to throw the noodle in the guest direction causing them to flinch. If you want a mental picture imagine the gymnasts that do twirling with streamers in the Olympics only now they twirl and dance a roll of dough in-between tables and guests. After two rounds of noodles and $25.00 spent (Total cost for dinner, drinks, etc) we returned home. It was only 9:30, an early night by any standard but I swear we needed our rest for tomorrow we rode to Tianjian on a train doing 350kph (217mph).

You’ve lost that loving Feelin’

Taking a cue from my favorite movie (Top Gun) I had a chance to unmistakably embarrass the hell out of myself. You see in China if you’re late for class the make you sing and dance in front of class as punishment. Well as fate (the hunter) would have it two of my good fellow Americans were late one morning this past week. So thanks to them and a miss understanding on my part (I can speak, read and write but I can’t listen) I ended up having to share the punishment also.

So knowing that this was going to be bad no matter what I decided to live out a little role playing. I and the other male vocalist decided to play Mav and Goose from Top Gun and the teacher filled the role of Kelly McGillis. Little to her knowledge we were about to serenade her with sweet music from the Righteous Brothers and then end it with the finale of “I am a little tea pot” (two people late = two songs). Starting off with “You’ve lost that loving feeling” and moving through to our final act was a blast. The four unknowing Korean girls in the glass were aghast as we sung to our teacher and the remaining American girl danced and lipped sung with us. Reaching the peak of my lyrical career we decided with no for-thought to finish with the All-American classic “I am a little teapot” with the accompanying hand motions and gestures.

All considered it was a blast for someone who hates to be embarrassed in public like that. I think that perhaps it was one of my best memories so far in this adventure. As to all of you who may be wondering, yes there is video provided by a one Rustin from Kazakhstan. I’ll be sure to try and secure a copy before my return to the states.

Meeting an Old Friend:

I had a chance to meet up with my old professor and great friend last weekend for a quick night out on Beijing. John taught me Chinese my freshman year for a semester before he returned to Beijing to teach at a University in the city. This arranged meeting took place after weeks of phone and email tag and shuffling of schedules. Finally we had a time and date that seemed firm.

To give you a mental picture it’s a beautiful Saturday evening in Beijing. It’s been windy the night before and early into the morning hours so now the sky is beautifully clear. To my west you can see the beautiful ridgeline that boards Beijing and the setting orb that we call the sun. Around four John calls to tell me that he is coming to pick me up in front of my dorm.

I never got a clear answer and that’s because I never asked for it (really rude) as to why it took him an hour to find me but that’s life. I had a chance to survey the sky and take in the beauty of the setting sun. After the cursory handshake and entry into his car I gave him the customary gift (always give your host a gift in China) of some distinctly American things.

As a note to the reader in China gifts are expected anytime someone else is hosting you. Appropriate gifts are tea sets, chocolate, paintings, and anything that is distinctly your culture. Also of note is that the actual value of the object does not really matter it’s the act/thought that they respect. But do not give a clock watches are acceptable but not clocks. The reason is that the word clock uses a word in Chinese that is similar to death so giving it will be accepted as saying “go die”.

Back to the recanting:
John had me as a captive audience to practice his English and me my Chinese as we drove across Beijing visiting the Olympic pavilions, the Bell tower, cultural park and other local sights. All the sights were beautiful and I have the pictures to prove it but most of all I enjoyed the company of an old friend. Laoshi (teacher) as I refer to John allowed me gave me an opportunity to unwind and relax. A couple of things stuck in my mind from that night.

The first is that he asked me whether or not I was becoming a monk. That question which he delivered in Chinese gave me some raised eyebrows. Perhaps I misunderstood his question was my first thought but no I had heard the correct words. “No, no I am not becoming a monk, why do you ask?” came my reply. “Oh well you are at the monk university didn’t you know?” was his response. The monk university, what was he talking about was my first thought. I had been on campus nearly five weeks at this point and I still hadn’t seen a single monk.

After much confusion and stumbling (thanks to my Chinese not his English) I came to understand the original question. Tsinghua is the paramount Engineering and Physics university in China similar to our MIT or RPI. His question was directed towards the absolute disproportion of men to women. In a school of 34,000 I would guess that maybe 3,000 are women. So to answer his question no I was not becoming a monk.

The night ended eating what the Chinese consider a rare and expensive delicacy, Shark Fin soup. I am not going to go into detail about this because I don’t know enough to argue for or against it. I will say that there is controversy over this soup and by animal and conservation groups. As to the actual eating of the soup well its good but I wouldn’t pick it again. Its fish, oily, and too expensive. That night was a well need break from the mundane routine that four hours a day of class can provide. I was glad to be out and on the road with a good friend to keep me company.

Sunday, March 15, 2009

Long day but good times

It was about two weeks ago when I had the chance to set out and truly explore some of the settings in Beijing. On a bright and sunny Saturday morning I set out with the company of two good friends to discover the experience that is Beijing. A quick two mile jot to the subway and a good 30 minute ride delivered us to downtown Beijing. Now buried deep inside of Beijing we set out to discover the world around us.

Our first stop was Xidan, which we were told was a great shopping center. Don’t get me wrong it is a beautiful place to shop…if you have access to considerable capital. The only good find in the Xidan area was a music shop that both Lawrence and I decided to try. Our purchases of local Chinese rock turn out to be a fortunate thing. We greatly enjoyed the time in the shop but we knew that we needed substance.

Crossing the street we arrived at a large super center of stores. In through the door and up through the maze of escalator took us to the top floor and lunch. Buried deep inside of this large complex of shops and vendors was a figurative pot of gold. Never in my life before has mall food tasted so good or look so interesting. In a somewhat cafeteria sort of way you navigate a maze of tables and small vendors searching for whatever smell attracts you.

It took a few minutes but we (Alex, Lawrence and I) were successful in finding a pleasing combination of food, seating, and comfort. We ended up settling on some dumplings (states-side: pot stickers), stuffed buns, tea, and Alex opted for some soup. To be absolutely honest the food was some of the best I’ve had here in China. I would compare our meal to comfort food state-side. It was steaming hot, greasy, juice, and onion and chive filled confections of bliss. The reader need not worry about our health for we made sure to purchase a few of the hot buns for later incase we started to waste away.

Done with our amazing gift we boarded the subway and headed northeast. Arriving at our destination I was planning on making a pick-up. A bag that I had left state side was waiting for me in at the Hilton hotel. I was an absolute pleasure to go inside of building and be surrounded by familiar and comforting sights, sounds, and smells. With my backpack in hand we once again board the subway and headed south.

Our next destination was the Beijing silk market. The silk market is a collection of vendors that can offer you any possible good or product imaginable. If you are ever in Beijing it is an absolute must to experience the silk market. Deep within its folds we navigated the vendors and shops seeking a vast range of items and most importantly the experience itself. With our loads heavy and our bodies tired we exited the silk market and headed for home. A forty-five minute cab ride (should have been only 20 minutes) that took us through Beijing rush hour added another flavor to our expedition. Having spent nearly eight hours out exploring and walking we retired for a respite.

Have no fear though…around 8:30pm Lawrence and I decided that hunger was going to drive us back out into the night’s frosty grip. With firm resolve and much good humor we headed for a hot-pot restaurant. Once inside the restaurant we had to order…thankfully my Chinese and the pictures help a great deal in this part of the night. The food was incredibly spicy and the staff got much enjoyment out of our lack of language skills. We ended up eating lotus roots, cabbage, beef, asparagus, and bean sprouts in a fire hot (spicy) boiling confection. After nearly two hours of good food and tea Lawrence and I returned to our dorm and the comforts of our beds.

The next morning greeted me with sore feet (I decided to break-in new shoes the day before) and fond memories. While that day past in a blur…I treasure it as dearly and any other.

Saturday, March 14, 2009

Snapshots

Some snapshots that I've been meaning to upload for everyone to see. Hope these images give you a better perspective of my life here in Beijing.


Me and Xiao Pengyou


Karl Dancing inside the Forbidden City


The National Theater


Home is the third from the right on the fifth floor


Last seat in Business Class on a United 777


Outside the LiQun Duck Restaurant


Lawrence eating some duck


Alex and Xiao Pengyou

Tuesday, March 10, 2009

The Twilight Zone

Imagine yourself, if you will in a place and time that is not normal. Imagine yourself sitting in Beijing Tea Cafe. The surroundings are familiar but yet foreign in a intangible regard. Something that no matter how much time you study will not reveal itself to you. No I do not mean the fact that beside two other people I am the only none Asian in the room and its not the language either. Well I had this revelation last Sunday evening sitting in a tea shop above a beautiful bookstore. Being in China you will notice that the mega-chains while present have yet to take over the populace.

In America a simple night out may end at a number of franchised restaurants or fast food chain. But while those restaurants are present they have yet to have taken the country. I would say that they only now have a very simple beachhead in the Chinese market. So instead of being in a Starbucks or a Boarders Cafe I was sitting in some entrepreneurs business. While resting myself in this beautiful locale I was granted access to a perhaps once in a life experience.

Sitting alone at a table covered with chinese books, paper, pens, and an assortment of coffee flavored drinks I was diligently working. What I did not know was that by the end of the day I would be greatly humbled and amused by once simple incident. Being the individual I am (size and height) I do not go easily unnoticed in a public setting and this was the case today. Hidden behind my books and listening to my ipod I was oblivious to the fact that fate was walking up to my table.

A cough, one simple action ripped me from my studies and opened the door to my humbling experience. I glance up revealed a man in his thirties and a child at his waist. With near perfect english the man asked if his son could sit with me. Sure was my quick reply, I wouldn't mind the company. So it began, it began with the simple act of a child sitting across from me. It started of simply we were both reading and then it happened. A question, I had a simpile question that was all and with an upward glance I started to ponder.

Then it happened. The small child sitting across from me noticed my perplexed look and then asked, "Do you need help?". "Why yes" I said yes I do need help probably in more than one way though. So with small steps my little companion arrived at my side and started to peer at my question. "Oh that....thats easy...here...just write this", said my small friend. Really, really, it was really that simple...no it couldn't have been. "Okay" I thought that was kinda a softball question but the next one that had me stumped was sure to get my short little friend. It sadly did not and I felt even more deflated by this. When finished with me my small friend who we would later name (xiao pengyou - literally small friend) proceeded to help the two other westerners with me.

Once finished with the three of us our small friend returned to his seat and book. Once thing that I forgot to mention in this retelling of the story is that throughout the experience our small chinese friend was speaking near perfect english and chinese. Yes our small friend who I would later discover was 10 had helped three college aged individuals with a combined age of 60. Yes, xiao pengyou humbled us greatly. His family returned around two hours after their departure and we thanked them in our broken chinese and told them how smart their son was.

We walked back to campus about two hours later humbled. We never learned his name but our thanks go out to xiao pengyou and yes all his answers and guidance were correct.

Wednesday, March 4, 2009

Rusty but not so trusty

Last Wednesday night my faithful friends (Alex – A girl from Tulsa and Lawrence from Nuremberg) decided that the cafeteria was not for us. So we mounted our faithful and trusty steeds and headed south to Wodaokou. The ride down was uneventful and refreshing. Our arrival at Wodaokou and the sushi that followed were just what the doctor had ordered. After another hour or so of wandering I decided to head back to the dorms solo. This was the beginning of major trouble for me.



To preface the next part of this tale I must inform the reader what my bicycle looks like. Its big…probably the largest bike they sell in China but it is old. When I say old I don’t mean a few months or years. I would think that this bike is most likely half of my age (20 years). It was covered in rust and dirt when I bought it but it still exuded strength. Or so I thought it did.


The ride home…

I am lucky that I did not die that night. While riding back up a dark street on campus I noticed that something wasn’t working right. With every down stroke on the left pedal a slipping motion occurred. At first I thought that perhaps it was just my shoes slipping on the pedal....boy was I wrong. I continued down the darkened road closing the distance to my dorm when I noticed a light from behind. Relief washed over me when I realized that the lights were the bright blue of a newer model car. Relief that I wasn’t going to be forced to the curb by a taxi (I think it’s a sport for them). As the car, which I had identified as an Audi A6 started to pass me I noticed something was going very wrong.


The left pedal dropped away on a down stroke. Yep dropped right off the side of the bike and into the street. Don’t worry its not essential to the operation of the bicycle…oh wait it is. Now I was left with one pedal and two cars on the left side of me. Yes the Audi decided that he needed to pass me while another car was going the opposite way. One thing that you learn early in every physics class is about inertia and momentum. With out the left pedal I was left with a leg creating unequal force. Naturally the bike translated this unequal force in to a wobble. Now I am not a small person by an use of the word. So my legs generate quite a large amount of work/force with each stroke. So a wobble for me is something short of hurricane.



So I am left wobbling between two passing cars and the curb in near pitch black conditions. It was so fun to say the least because as I started to wobble the Audi decided that he was a part-time taxi driver. Remember what I said about the taxi driver sport (driving bicycles to the curb) well I was about to do that dance not with a $15,000 Hyundai but with a $90,000 Audi. The honking and swerving on both of our parts lasted a second if that…but it was one of those times that seems to drag by.

I made a successful stop and recovery of my missing left pedal. Using my vast skill set I properly re-placed the pedal with a swift kick from the vertical axis. With it somewhat secured I made the rest of the journey home uneventfully. Sadly trusty rusty (the nickname for my bike) is no longer trusty but don’t worry she is still rusty.